Crack of Doom

This somewhat obscure project became kind of infamous in Montana (or atleast in my mind), as it was located in the most popular bouldering venue in the state; Whiskey Gulch.  The Crack of Doom was put in the bouldering guide, (which was later included in the Butte guide) named and even given the grade of (5.13!) even though no one had ever been on it before.  (we did our fair share of research, but if you know anything, speak up!)

an attempt from a few years ago

The route is steep, around 45 degrees and goes from a seam with a few tight hand pods to a flared fists, offwidth and squeeze in about 45 feet.  Short, but fierce, with the bottom flared hands being the crux.

Steep little beast

Anyways after 4 days over a few years, 30 + attempts and lots of flopping around like a fish, I finally got up it.  The main concern was that the crux was super low and above uneven ground.  After the first piece there isnt much to work with until after the crux and decking wasn't really in the cards for me.  I could place a bolt or a pin i suppose, but didn't have either with, and there was the RARE chance that it had been done before so I didn't want to dumb it down for a second ascent.  I DID however fix a nut with a sling hitched to it from the key lock crack above and hung a combo draw from it prior the lead.  I know, I know, chicken sh!t, bull sh!t, but better than decking on my one day off from work.  I left the nut and sling hanging and if you are so inclined you can skip it, booty it, or try it like i did. What ever you want.  All other gear was placed on lead.

                       Here's a short vid of the send, well the bottom crux anyways and the sling in question.  Above the route backs down to .11+ offwidth and I couldn't feel my right arm at the top of the climb.

                                              

As for grade, name or whatever....  Im not going to rename the thing even though Crack of Doom is more famous in the City of Rocks than it is in some gulch in Montana, BUT it is known to all that frequent the area, majority carrying pads and climbing V-hard.  I think from the ground .13 was a good guess, but think that .12d or so is a bit more on. 

Thanks to Tom for going out there over and over with me even though we barely bouldered, Trevor for holding the rope on the send and following it CLEAN and Ty, Hutch and everyone else who helped keep the pysche up!

cheers,

Patrick